BASIC REQUIREMENTS NEEDED TO START YOUR GOAT STUD:
The ideal would be ringlock or hinge joint fencing, with one or two plain top wires above and with electric offsets to keep bucks from jumping or stradling the fence, alternately use a tight 7 or 8 strand plain wire fence at least 1.5 metres in height.
All goats require some sort of shelter from the ever changing weather conditions, the ideal is an all weather shed with free access for them to come and go when ever they choose, or perhaps mature shelter trees, goats do not like to be left out in heavy rain or severe sun.
Always have fresh clean water available adlib for all livestock, stagnant pools of water or no water at all will kill your valuable animals, why spend money initially on their purchase only to neglect their basic needs, cruelty to animals is a serious offence, so monitor your animals year round.
NOW WHAT DO I BUY?:
Choose your breed and class of goat:
If you only want to breed for meat purposes for personal use or for selling as a meat carcase, then it is not necessary to purchase high priced registered fullblood goats, crossbreds are more suited to this and the benefit with them is that they are much hardier and require less hands on attention as would the purebred and fullblood goats. If your thinking of perhaps showing a goat in the near future, then you will need to buy a registered fullblood goat as the agricultural shows would normally only have Boer Goat classes for registered fullblood or purebred stock, there are some exceptions, but not many. The benefit of a registered goat is that it’s genetic background is retained on a national database and is very valuable when deciding to bring in new bloodline and for it’s resale value to another breeder locally or Internationally.
Seek out a reputable breeder:
Before purchasing your first herd of goats for breeding, we would advise you to visit several breeders/studs before making your decision, and do of possible get a look at the sellers whole herd, as you don’t want to buy from a breeder who neglects his animals, visually the goats should be free from scouring or having a dirty bottom which is often a sign of worm infestation, prices will vary between studs, so by doing your homework first, it will save you money in the long run.
How many Doe’s and Bucks do I buy?
The norm would be 1 mature Buck (aged 2 years plus) to every 30 or so Doe’s, younger bucks are only used on a very small number of Doe’s, the reason is that it could inhibit his growth rate if used too early, especially before he is 12 months of age.
DON’T buy a buck that is closely related to the Doe’s and always be prepared to pay more and buy a quality Fullblood registered buck, as he will sire better quality offspring than would a crossbred buck, if breeding for commercial and meat purposes, colour is not a factor, what is important is to look for a buck that is h5 and carries lots of muscle and meat, your not breeding for a pretty goat, but one that is definitely a meat animal.
– Register your name and address with the Department of Primary Industries, the ‘NLIS’ is Australia’s National Livestock Identification System for the permanent identification and tracing of livestock for market access, food safety and disease purposes.
Registration is free of charge, you will be provided with your properties unique ‘P.I.C’ or Property Identification Code which is an 8 character code, it is used to identify any livestock producing property.
Upon signing up you will be forwarded 2 booklets, 1 is the National Vendor Declaration (Goats) and Waybill and the National Goat Health Statement, when goats are moved from your property (even if only going to a show for the day) or sold, they must be accompanied by a completed National Vendor Declaration and Waybill, only when selling a goat do you need to complete the Goat Health Statement, this is a declaration signed by you stating the health of the goat and the herd from which it has been removed, if buying goats please ask for this statement.
All farmed goats are now required to be ear tagged with an NLIS tag approved for use on goats, the tags can be coloured as per the year code or just choose your preferred colour as your breeders tag, yellow tags must be used as a post breeder tag (which is used on goats not bred by you or born on your property), for further detailed information please check out your states DPI /MLA website.
If you are breeding livestock you are by law required to have a ‘P.I.C’.
To apply for your P.I.C. log into your states DPI website or phone them for details.
• IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR PEOPLE NEW TO GOATS:
Please don’t get scammed by breeders wanting to sell you goats that are not as they are said to be, here are an example of the breed codes and the difference between them, you should be well aware of these before visiting studs to buy stock.
A Fullblood Boer
– is a goat that has only that particular breed within it’s genetic bloodlines.
A Purebred Boer
– is a goat with a majority of Boer genetic bloodline but will also have infusion of another breed.
is obviously a goat with several breeds within its genetic bloodline, most often it has a feral infusion.
Drench or worm your goats regularly and alternate your drenches to avoid parasite resistence.
Vaccinate your goats with either a 5 in 1 or 6 in 1 vaccine once a year, kids need 2 vaccinations, 1 at aged approx. 6 > 8 weeks and then a booster vaccination 4 weeks later, then yearly.
Joining a Goat Association:
Associations are a support base for breeders of all kinds, stud, commercial or just the hobbyist breeder, we manage a registry database of bloodlines for the various breeds, it is only through an association that you can register your goats.
Associations are one of the first points of contact for Export Agents, International and domestic enquiries for the purchase of goats, we then forward on all of these genuine enquiries to our members, in our association no one breeder or state/territory is favoured over another.
Upon joining an association you will be required to submit a stud name and stud prefix, the prefix is used on the goats registration certificate as a shortened and identifiable symbol of your stud, it is also included on any ear tags, the stud name is the name that preceeds your goats choosen name for registration i.e. Hillview (stud name) Amy (goats name) = ‘Hillview Amy’. Once you have registered your stud and your goats you can then enter and exhibit at most Agricultural Shows in all states.
Registration of goats:
A goat that does not have any proof of genetic bloodlines of the sire and dam, proof being a copy of their registration papers issued by us ‘Boer Goat Australia’ or the ‘Boer Goat Breeders Association of Australia’, will only be eligible for registration as an ‘F1’ (1st. Cross Boer).
All other registration categories such as Fullblood, Purebred, F2,F3 and F4 will require submission to the Registrar copies of their current registration with either ‘Boer Goat Australia’ or ‘Boer Goat Breeders Association of Australia’ before registrations will be processed and approved.
Enjoy your goats, take the time to know them in good health and you will then easily pick up health problems much earlier and avoid any disasters, a healthy happy goat is one that will produce better offspring and live longer.